PHOEBE GABRIELLE
Climber
HOMETOWN
Herndon, Virginia
HOBBY
Writing, painting and playing the viola
FAVORITE ZONE
Kandersteg, Switzerland
PROUDEST ACHIEVEMENT
Winning Para-Psicobloc RP3 category
Biography
I'm a paraclimber based in Boulder, Colorado. I started climbing 14 years ago after being kicked out of gymnastics for being too tall. I competed on the USA Climbing and IFSC circuit for 11 seasons until my condition, Ehlers Danlos Syndrome, forced me to retire. I was devastated as I was aiming for the 2024 Paris Olympics as a speed specialist, but in 2022, I found a new passion in ice climbing and dry tooling. I've qualified for the US Ice Climbing Team twice and have been on the US National Team for climbing six times. I'm currently the only paraclimber on the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup tour and the only Hard of Hearing athlete in the competition circuit. My goal is to show that adaptive athletes can excel in ice climbing and to raise awareness of invisible disabilities. Losing my speed climbing career was shattering, but it taught me that I'm capable of much more. I now regularly compete on the UIAA Ice Climbing circuit, including several Continental and World Cups. Moral of the story? Just keep going!
Q&A
Q: How did you discover your passion for climbing?
A: It was pretty much off the bat, I walked into a gym for the first time at thirteen and fell in love with the sport immediately. I had gotten kicked out of gymnastics for being too tall and my friend suggested I "try this thing called climbing". And the deeper I got into it, the more I learned, the more I got to experience, the harder I fell for it until I started to build my entire life around it, and pursue it to the highest level possible.
Q: What advice would you give to someone who is new to climbing and eager to improve?
A:
Respect the process and progression. It's easy to push too hard when your skills improve quickly, but without solid technique, gaps in your training will catch up with you. Instead of correcting basics like footwork later, focus on building a strong foundation from the start. While it's tempting to power through, mastering the fundamentals early is more beneficial long term. Also, remember to condition! Adding weights, cardio, and other exercises will enhance your climbing skills.
Q: How do you balance training with other aspects of your life?
A: I used to train for 4-6 hours, which led to boredom and burnout with little progress. After working with Tim Emmet and Will Gadd, they suggested shorter, focused sessions. Initially, I worried about losing progress, but within weeks, I felt great. Short, intense sessions allowed more rest, kept me mentally fresh, and led to better results. I now have more time for school, work, and non-climbing activities, and my training is more efficient and productive.
Q: In what ways do you think ACOPA stands out from other climbing shoe
brands in terms of innovation and quality?
A: Everything about Acopa shoes stands out! I've tried many brands, but nothing compares. The rubber is amazing—no slick break-in period, so I can trust my smears and stand on volumes confidently. This lets me focus more on climbing, boosting my confidence in projects and training. The rubber also lasts long; my Gamas lasted a full year before needing a resole, and I train hard. Acopa shoes fit perfectly, even with my wide, flat feet and narrow heels, without any discomfort or dead space. I highly recommend Acopa—14/10!
Q: Who has been your greatest mentor or role model in your climbing journey?
A: For the first eight years of my climbing career, I had a very punitive coach who prioritized success at any cost. Now, my coaches have been incredible mentors. Ty has been fantastic for speed, and Tim Emmett and Will Gadd, two of the best ice climbers in the world, chose to mentor me. They’ve helped me progress in ice climbing and dry tooling, and I aspire to follow in their footsteps and achieve some of their iconic sends. Despite my disability, their belief in me and their coaching have been invaluable. I'm deeply grateful.
Q: Can you share a funny or unusual anecdote from your climbing
experiences?
A: Oh man, after fourteen years, I've got plenty of stories, but this recent one takes the cake. In December 2023, my friend and I planned to go to the Swiss Cup in Winterthur, but then we stopped discussing it, so I assumed we weren’t going. The night before, we were sharing a bottle of wine, and I was pretty tipsy. My friend then asked what time we were leaving for Winterthur. I was stunned—“We’re still going?” I asked, panicked. We were, so I threw my bag together at 1 a.m. and we drove nearly three hours from Adelboden. Hungover, I somehow managed to almost make the finals, missing it by just one spot and two points. Seeing the results posted made me laugh. Not planning to repeat that, but it was a wild ride. Moral of the story? Make sure you and your comp buddy are on the same page before opening that wine bottle the night before 🤣