PACO AYALA
Climber
HOMETOWN
Mexico City
HOBBY
Video games
FAVORITE ZONE
Mineral del Chico, Mexico
PROUDEST ACHIEVEMENT
El Techo del Puma, V11
Biography
I grew up in Apaxco, Estado de México, in a loving and hardworking family, being the youngest of two siblings. I've always considered myself a cheerful and somewhat irreverent person. I'm a communications specialist by profession, but for almost 5 years, I've been a full-time climbing coach, focusing mainly on periodization and sports programming. I really enjoy both rope climbing and bouldering, though I’m definitely more skilled in the latter. I love anime and action video games with high difficulty levels.
Q&A
Q: Can you recall a particular moment or experience that solidified your
commitment to climbing as a sport?
A: When I had been climbing for 5 years, I was able to train for the first time with some of the best climbers in the country. It was very eye-opening to see that physical qualities I was so proud of, like being able to do one-arm pull-ups, were just the minimum requirement for them. I felt like a fish taken out of its tank and thrown into the sea, but with a lot of motivation to keep improving.
Q: How do you deal with expectations in climbing?
A: Separating my value as a climber from my value as a person is one of the hardest things (especially since climbing is such a central part of my life). It's easy to fall into comparisons and set overly ambitious goals because we think we "should" have a certain level or progress. It's important to remember that we climb for ourselves and to constantly reassess why we do it.
Q: Can you describe your typical training routine or regimen?
A: It varies depending on the time of year, but I always aim to include two specific climbing training sessions (either on or off the wall) and two general physical conditioning sessions (using weights or bodyweight) each week. It's important to organize these sessions so I can consistently stick to them and be honest with myself about adjusting the intensity based on how I feel each day.
Q: How do you see the future of climbing evolving, and what role do you hope to play in it?
A: As climbing continually expands, it becomes increasingly competitive, raising the demand or expectation for significant results in less time. I would like to promote the idea that it's worthwhile to develop habits that allow for a long and enjoyable climbing career. With the right habits, one can achieve great results and enjoy them for many years.
Q: Can you share a specific feature or aspect of ACOPA climbing shoes that you
find particularly beneficial to your performance?
A: My climbing style involves a lot of body tension, especially in my toes. I like not having to worry about rubber friction when I climb and knowing that as long as I apply enough pressure, the shoe will stay in place.
